New York Classics & Alternatives
- Elle
- Jan 18, 2020
- 18 min read
Updated: Mar 27, 2020
NYC. This just might be the most tempting and dream-inducing three letter combo in our universe. Everybody seems to have a relationship with New York City, regardless of whether they have in fact visited the Big Apple or not. Whether your cultural references come from Annie Hall (Woody Allen), Empire State of Mind (Alicia Keys & Jay Z), Here Is New York (E.B.White) or Sex and the City (I want to say Candace Bushnell/Michael Patrick King but really SJP!), you have an idea as well as an opinion about the city that never sleeps.
Most of you reading this will even have your own personal relationship with the city, having visited at one time or another (or over and over again). So, you really do not need an NYC guide from a self-proclaimed concrete jungle addict. And that is fair enough. We all have so many experiences on our radar, to be lived through the next time we visit the city, sometimes it almost feels offensive when somebody makes a suggestion.
However, this is not a tour-guide. This is simply my "personal best" of a special kind: New York classics that I actually think are must-dos as well as alternatives that are just as fun. Enjoy and try not to see them as "either/ors" because, really, the dichotomy is simply a story telling device.
Art Museums
The Classic: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
The largest art museum in the United States demands some serious attention from its visitors. My favorite part of the Met is The Costume Institute's annually changing exhibition. If you are at all interested in fashion, this exhibition, which is opened by the Met Gala -- the most fashionable night of the year -- each spring, is always a treat.
Overall, the collection of the Met is too vast to simply stroll through and feel like you didn't miss anything. That being said, getting lost in this maze can be a wonderful experience on its own. While I would recommend looking up the exhibitions ahead of time and marking the pieces you really want to see, you do not have to put that kind of pressure on yourself if you don't want to: Simply stroll the halls marveling at the building's architecture or enjoy the fantastic views from the never overcrowded rooftop (elevator to top floor and then a flight of stairs). If you have only a few hours and no must-see artwork on your bucket list, this is still totally worth a trip.
The "Alternative:" The Whitney
Keith Mayerson (9-11); Jasper Johns (Three Flags); Georgia O'Keeffee (Summer Days)
Definitely no underground/true alternative option, the Whitney exhibits American art, the limited collections significantly reducing any emotional stress an overachiever might feel running around the Met, desperately attempting to take it all in. A focus on 20th century & contemporary artists definitely give this museum a current feel and that is further supported by the wonderful architecture of the building!! Definitely take a look downtown from the rooftop. What a treat.
Museums With "History" in the Title
The Classic: American Museum of Natural History
The dinosaurs are legendary and should definitely not be missed. I however, particularly love the Rose Center for Earth and Space which provided so many insights, I remembered what it was like during my early school years when learning was so fascinating, everything seemed new and revolutionary, and new insights were abundant and easy to come by. That is exactly what these exhibitions feel like for me: because most of them are meant to be understood by children also, and that is exactly the level of space-knowledge I am stuck on...
The Alternative: Museum of the City of New York
I am well aware that I might be the only New York City tourist whose first book about the city was a history book and not a "where to shop" blog. In my constant hope for companionship, I nevertheless naively assume that there are more of me out there and to you I say: I know I don't have to convince you. Go, see everything, leave with a deeper understanding of the city's past (mostly cultural and architectural) and present.
To everyone else: Hear me out. You cannot help but be fascinated by New York City once you are there. And I really mean "New York City" as a concept. Not the cool stores, not the yummy food, and not (only) the hubbub of downtown. I mean the concept of New York City, the unlikelihood that this really could work. So you must have at least a spark of an interest in learning how this fascinating city came to be and what it looked like during different time periods (and be appalled by the situation during many of those time periods). Do me one favor. Go here. Watch the movie in the basement first, then decide if you really can walk out and not consume everything in here. There are changing exhibitions too so it's really about history as well as the contemporary New York moment. And that is why where are all here after all.
Parks The Classic: Central Park
This park might seem like "nature go wild" and many a visitor stands marveling at "what the
city must have looked like a long time ago." Well, they are wrong.
This park is the genius creation of the Commissioner's Plan of 1811 and architects Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux: this park is entirely artificial in that the land was rocky and swampy but also inhabited by -- mainly -- freed African Americans as well as Irish immigrants. The bad news first: The people living in this location were forcibly removed. This is a perfect and painful example of city planning not taking into consideration the need of all the people, but rather the need of the ones in power.
At the same time, however, this focus on what the mighty rich European immigrants wanted, created a park which is such a beautiful symbol of this crazy city: as, when it was built, nobody could really imagine the city actually reaching all the way up to the park one day. This was a trip outside the city, once it was opened in 1876, while, today, it is right smack down the center of the city. Thus, Central Park is a sign of New York's inherent character of the ultimate overachiever. Thinking small is not a thing here, and the city's world-famous park is just one prime example of this -- maybe -- most New York quality of all.
And what I love about this park really is its unbelievable size. Because it means that you can really get lost in it. As a matter of fact, I personally believe it to be more difficult to not get lost in Central Park than to do the opposite. Most visitors to NYC dread the day of their departure and want to be "of the city" every waking minute. However, should one ever feel like wanting to escape the city, this is the place to do it! Block an hour or two in your tourist-schedule and run head-first and map-last into this crazy, constructed nature (running here, really is fun too!).
The Alternative (?): The High Line
If Central Park is the park that makes you forget about the city surrounding it, the High Line is the park most celebratory of the city through which it snakes.
The first stretch was opened in 2009 at which point this was still somewhat of a secret location. Since, however, tourists have long discovered this unique space, so don't even think about coming here for a run. In fact, if you want to fit in with New Yorkers, you better complain about the park and make a point of avoiding it: it is simply too much of a tourist magnet. You can't blame them tourists, though: It is a gorgeous and genius narrow but looong park! Benches, water (in drinking-and non-drinking fountain form) and even food stands have been included in a fairly genius way. And today, if you start in the Meatpacking (maybe right after having visited the Whitney?) you can walk it all the way to the newly "opened" Hudson Yards.
Soaring above the City
The Classic: The Empire State Building
Sleepless in Seattle, King Kong or Gossip Girl ? If you consume "popular" fictional programs, the chances of you ever having encountered a dramatic and (self-proclaimed) romantic scene that involves the top of the Empire State Building are high. It is the prime location for longing, delayed gratification and the only true romance still alive in the world today (whenever that today might have been.
Once not only the largest building in the city (1931-1972), but the world, I particularly enjoy the story of how it overtook the Chrysler Building (one of my personal favorite structures in the city) in a stroke of genius/malice. The two buildings' investors/architect were in a race to become the city's highest building. The Chrysler building won and was the tallest building for 11 months when the Empire State Building added an antenna which nobody knew about and thus became the city's tallest building.
The Alternative: Top of the Rock
If the draw of climbing the Empire State Building is "being on the Empire State Building," then the draw of the Top of the Rock is definitely "seeing the Empire State Building." There is not much else to be said about this: it is simply my favorite view from any rooftop in the city. The crowds can be pretty crazy and be sure to check pricing and times ahead of your visit: It gets more expensive around sunset and a few other supposedly "perfect" times of the day/week/month/life.
Best Ceilings
The Classic: Grand Central Terminal
See that crazy gorgeous turquoise ceiling with what looks like the zodiac signs? Well, they are. But guess what: They are drawn on "backwards:" In fact, when you look up at the ceiling from inside the grand hall, it looks like you are looking down from above the signs, so pretty much you have "God's view." This was intentional, at least that's what the officials claimed. What had probably happened is that the the painters had placed the painting on the ground and copied it like that -- backwards. That would not have made for quite as great a story, however, and since an architectural masterpiece such as this grand hall deserves a majestic origin story, the God's perspective story, is the one I will keep telling visitors while they stand with their heads tilted backwards and drool making its way out of their mouths, open with awe.
The Alternative: New York Public Library
This is a house of books. That should be enough. And yet it isn't because it is also one of the most stunning buildings in the city -- particularly from the inside. Stop by when you go to Bryant Park for a movie screening, yoga class, or Christmas market. It's open to the public and easily accessible. And, often, there are nice (mostly free) smaller exhibitions in here as well. And did I mention the books?
Best Special Night out Dinners
The Classic: Buddhakan
You might recognize this location from the frustrating Sex and the City the Movie when Carrie and Big held their rehearsal dinner here. If you can, however, block out the memories of the content of this movie and simply remember the beautiful fashion (isn't that what we all do with that movie anyway?) you will have a grand old time here. Not only does this place feel festive, decadent and fashionable, the food is also really good, as are the cocktails!
The Alternative: Freemans
At the end of a dead end path in the East Village is Freemans. I have tried to figure out if the interior or the food are more impressive but I cannot, so here you go: Great place all around! The value is incredible (a particular feat in this city...) and it is simply such a special mood in here, you cannot go wrong in any season because you forget about your real life as soon as you step foot in here anyway. Yes, we had artichoke dip , mashed potatoes and a hearty chicken in the heat of a true global warming summer. And it was fabulous.
Books
The Classic: Strand Books
The original was founded in 1927 and, at its "new" location, you still find the city's largest (independent) bookstore. They sell new and used books and while sometimes, more curation and a smaller selection can be more enticing, I adore the shop for its sheer load of the written word and its nevertheless fairly glorious feat of managing recommendations in a ways that makes me feel not lost even on my most indecisive day.
The Alternative: Bonnie Slotnick Cookbooks
In this tiny shop at the edge of the Village, you will find cookbooks only (mostly used), but so many of them, you might be wondering what you were even cooking for all of your life? A true gem if you have a minute or sixty to browse. The owner will help you find things, should you actually know what you are looking for.
Street Food
The Classic: Hot Dogs
You can find hot dogs all over the city. Are they basic? Yes. Are they nevertheless delicious? Yes. Look out for sellers who have some relish or other add-ons. Spots around Central Park seem to have dibs on those but there doesn't seem to be any hard science to it.
Extra Classic Classic: Nathan's Hot Dogs
Nathan's is the 1916 original on Coney Island where hot dogs were sold for a nickel. They are a bit more pricey today but at least they also have corn dogs and all other kinds of fast food. Come here? Definitely, you have to go to Coney Island anyway!
The Alternative: Mango With Tajin
Tajin really is the name of the company who produces the seasoning. It is really called "salsa en polvo" and consists of chile peppers, salt and lime. It's super great on mangoes and on the rim of a margarita glass but really you can use it on pretty much anything (eggs!!). You can find it (on mangoes) on offer at pretty much every fruit stand on the side of the road.
Best "As Seen As on" Dinner Locations
The Classic: Serendipity
Kate Beckinsale, John Cusack. New York City in 2001 and one of the most cozy romantic Christmas movies there is (Serendipity, duh.). Therefore, I do recommend coming here during the winter. But do not fret: Even during the summer time you will forget the season once you are in here (this seems to be a pattern for me)! And you might even be more up for their greatest treat: The worlds most ginormous and delicious ice cream sundae. Supermodels apparently come here to eat french fries (see Chanel Iman in picture three above) and if you are as lucky as we were last time: You might be given Marilyn Monroe's table. Be sure to chat to the owner if he is around (up front with the reservations book): He has tons of story and is always happy to spill some secrets, it seems!
The Alternative: Da Marino's
Da Marino's is apparently a show bizz person's favorite, what with its adjacency to Broadway and all the important theaters there. To us, however, it provided a refuge from the pouring rain after a show of Chicago. We had no idea we were in such a storied house until we saw all the requisite pictures on the walls of famous people posing with the owner who turned out to be the guy gifting us cheese with our bubbly at the bar. The decor is on the kitschy side and exactly what I desire at all times (check out the women's bathroom!!! and forgive my photographs: this was the beginning of the iphone...) and there is live music every night, if I'm not mistaken. During that first, drenched, visit there, me and my friend somehow managed to get ourselves talked into singing "New York, New York" with the piano player; to a full house. This is not a karaoke bar, let me tell you that! But it was such a great moment reminiscent of Mister Big's karaoke moment here (please see video below) , that it will forever go down as one of my best nights in the city. The Italian cuisine is good but overpriced. Go for pre-theater dinner or simply drinks and nibbles at the bar.
Best Sandwich
The Classic: Katz's
Maybe, there is nothing that still needs to be said about Katz's. But just in case: here I go.
P-AS-T-R-A-M-I
My favorite New York City history podcast has a fantastic episode about Katz's, I'd suggest to listen to that instead of reading my rambling thoughts: http://www.boweryboyshistory.com/2008/02/katz-delicatessen.html
Here's the lowdown: Founded in 1888 (really old by New World standards) in the Lower East Side, Katz's has had the name "Katz" in the title since 1903 and only ever moved location once -- across the street -- due to the building of the Subway underneath. This is then also the location which you simply must know as the backdrop to the most iconic of orgasm scenes in movie history: Meg Ryan in When Harry Met Sally (1977).
The pastrami is divine, the lines out the door can be long and, yes, it has become a tourist magnet. However, if you go during the afternoon (not during prime lunch hour), wait times are super manageable, sometimes you can even order right away. Also: Many New Yorkers come here still so it is a true institution and not simply a tourist gimmick. And an institution it is for the right reasons: Their pastrami is absolutely divine. I'd suggest getting the combo where you get half a sandwich and your choice of soup (matzo all the way!). The full sandwich is mucho too big for me anyway and that way I get more diversity on my tray! And never say no to the pickles.
Also: Do not loose your pink ticket that you are given on your way into the restaurant! You will hand it over to your meat cutter and the people handing you your drinks and they will write down the things you ordered on it in their mysterious short-hand. Even if you should end up not eating anything (why would you???), you MUST hand over the ticket on your way out and pay up. If you loose your ticket, you will pay a fine.
(Not really an) Alternative: Zabar's
If you are a New Yorker, you will laugh at my audacity of naming Zabar's an "alternative." Founded in 1934 by the couple Louis and Lillian Zabar it has remained in the same location on Broadway and 80th ever since (but has grown to occupy what feels like the entire block). It has also not betrayed its originating reason for success: quality, fair prices and a 100% focus on the customer.
What keeps bringing me back here, aside from the wonderful food, is the mood. I try to avoid cultural stereotypes at all costs but there is just something unique to a business frequented by the Jewish diaspora. The feeling at the fish counter is comparable to an Italian fish market, so I am not saying this is a uniquely Jewish thing. What I am saying, however, is that the business offers a plethora of Jewish specialties (although it also offers so much more than that) and, therefore, attracts devoted fans who know exactly what they want. This, again, is not specific to the Jewish community, but the terms that are being shouted across counters and the accents and attitudes in which the demands are being communicated are uniquely Jewish. And it is 100% wonderful.
Also. The Lox.
Best Brunch
The Classic: Russ and Daughters, the Café
Listen. If you're unsure if you're REALLY in the mood for one of the most fabulous brunches in the city, this might be too much of a hassle to go through. If you have made up your mind however, you will be rewarded. But with a delay. I am pretty sure that our last visit, on a gorgeous summery Sunday (brunch mayhem), we were told the wait would be around 45 minutes and we ended up waiting more than double that time. However, if you go there with this potential danger realistically placed in your mind and -- after having left your name and phone number -- just go across the street to have your first coffee there while you wait: no hurry, no worry! You will be notified on your cellphone, once your table is ready! (although we were not entirely sure if the people cramming in the (air conditioned) entrance area might have gotten seated faster because they were just so much IN THE WAY! Not saying you should be a pain in the ass for this reason though. A sign at the counter also tries to counteract this type of behavior by reminding everyone "be a Mensch!"). You might end up being seated at the bar with impatient future patrons standing behind you, waiting for their table, but even that is no downer. The food is so good (as are the drinks) and the staff as well as the ambiance are so on par, that none of the annoyed by-standing stand-byers could ever ruin this experience.
The Alternative: Murray's Cheese Bar
The lines are shorter (often even non-existent) and the cheese more free-flowing. Murray's is definitely a cheese lover's paradise, regardless of the meal-time. We go crazy over their mac and cheese with chorizo but you really can't go wrong with any of the dishes.
Water Ways
The Classic: Staten Island Ferry
It's such a classic that it seems highly unlikely you have never consumed any cultural artefact including it. It's also a bit silly to call it a "classic" tourist destination because it still serves as a major means of transportation for "normal" people. Therefore, I recommend to be on your best tourist behavior when you ride it (matter of fact, why don't you try doing that all of the time in all of the places?)! And ride it you will. Everything about it is iconic. The shrill orange lacquer that covers the ferry is legendary and I recommend you do not spend all your photographic energy on the views but also take a few nice snaps of yourselves in front of parts of the orange swimmer: makes for great portraits! However, do not miss out on the views completely! You get a wonderful view of lower Manhattan, the Statue of Liberty, and even New Jersey, if you're into that kind of thing. Don't go crazy running around the ferry and pushing other snappers out of the way, though, because you know that you will ride it right back once you get to Staten Island: There will be plenty more opportunities to get that perfect shot!
Extra bonus: it's free and runs practically around the clock. Just be sure not to stuff yourselves on the vessel during rush hour. It's no fun for you and the commuters will certainly not wish you good karma. Ride takes ca 25 minutes one way.
The Alternative: Governor Island (and its Corresponding Ferry)
The bad news first: Governor's Island is closed to the public in the winter. But if you visit New York between May and October, it is most definitely worth a visit. I have never made it to one of the countless events hosted there during the summer, but I actually appreciate the island most when there are fewer people anyway. It serves as such a cool respite from the city!!
While you can get closer to the Statue of Liberty on the Staten Island Ferry, the super-perk of Governor's island is its close proximity to the tip of Manhattan. I simply adore the views here, especially peaking at the skyline above the old fort.
Originally, the island did not have its now iconic ice cream cone shape. Until 1911, it was round and used by the Lanape Indians, mainly for fishing. The first New York Settlers actually landed here and not on Manhattan! Castle Williams, the round-ish construction on the Manhattan edge was built in 1811 while the mighty Fort Jay has been there since 1775 when it was built by the colonial militia.
In 1911, the ice cream cone was added to the island's structure using landfill from the spoils of the construction of the Lexington Avenue subway line! It was used for warehouses and, mainly, a full-service military base.
After the military left and the island went to the city, a small part of the island in the North was dedicated a national park in 2003 and has since been open to the public. The park has since been expanded to now spread almost all across the island, but -- pending funding -- it promises to become even better in the future.
Not much can become better, if you ask me, though. Bring a book, sunbathe, take advantage of the food and drinks on site and roam across the island looking at history: a day well spent in my book.
You can get here via Ferry from Manhattan and Brooklyn (the latter has a more limited schedule). Extra bonus: The first ferries on the weekend are free (otherwise, it's a still agreeable 3$ for a roundtrip).
Shows
The Classic: Broadway Shows
You can't go wrong with any of the shows if people breaking into song mid-sentence is what you love! The big shows such as Phantom of the Opera or Chicago are phenomenal but also give smaller "off-Braodway" shows (I don't even know where that line is nowadays) a chance: I once saw Taye Diggs in Hedwig and the Angry Inch in a fairly small and intimate theater (see picture above) and it was one of the greatest shows I've ever seen.
Buy Broadway tickets at a TKTS both, on the day of the show, and save big bucks:
I would not suggest standing in line at the Times Square ticket office: go instead to the one in South Street Seaport, it hardly ever has lines!
The Alternative : UCB Comedy Shows
These shows are almost always deeply funny, often frighteningly interactive and -- never happened to me but does occasionally occur -- can include the brightest comedy stars in the country making a surprise visit. Founded by Amy Poehler and two of her friends in Chicago in 1996, the Upright Citizens Brigade has churned out talent such as Kate McKinnon, Donald Glover and Aubrey Plaza. So, the chances of you seeing somebody here, a couple of months shy from being "the next big thing in comedy" are really really high.
I go to the location in Hell's Kitchen but there is another one on Bleecker "at Subcultre."
Shows with Dance
The Classic: New York City Ballet
The Lincoln Center is the home of the New York City Ballet, one of the world's best ballet companies. They put on a selection of gorgeous pieces, and you can find a mix of classical pieces, modern interpretations of said classical ballets and thoroughly contemporary pieces. For the latter, watch out for choreographer Justin Peck: He is a pure genious!
Beware though: The ballet has seasons, so check it out ahead of time to make sure you are there while they actually put on shows! It is more than worth planning your trip around these dates!
The Alternative: The Rockettes at Radio City Music Hall
Let me just make this clear: I love Christmas more than I love most things. The Christmas Spectacular is legendary and all kinds of over the top: exactly what I want during the season. If that is what you want as well, you cannot go wrong with this. Otherwise: better skip to avoid thinking "these Americans really have to be over the top about everything!"
Sweets
The Classic: Magnolia Bakery
I think that cupcakes cannot really be too sweet. Their entire purpose is to be sweet and I require a generous serving of delicious butter cream on top. In this respect, Magnolia Bakery delivers big time. Also try their legendary Banana Pudding! Almost as legendary as this SATC moment, illustrative of maybe my favorite friendship of the show:
Still from season three of Sex and the City
The original location is in the West Viallage and it is the cutest but also always seems to be overflowing with not jut customers but toursists just wanting to see it. Luckily, the treats are equally delicious in all the locations.
The Alternative: Lady M
I was surprised by this cake on my 30th birthday. Well, my friends did the surprising. The cake did enough by just existing and being open to being devoured.
Let me tell you two things this cake has taught me:
I apparently like matcha after all.
I apparently do not exclusively like overly sweet desserts!
This cake -- and all the other flavors Lady M and her staff of super-elfs concoct -- is made up of incredibly thin layers of crèpes, with some sort of cream between each layer. The texture of the cake is equally as great as its flavor. Don't worry. In her shops, you can also find smaller pieces! But I do suggest getting the whole cake because, I have learned, it also makes for a great breakfast the morning after.
The end.
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